How to use jigsaw for cutting material

Posted by Malik Waqas on January 5th, 2021

Jigsaw, also known as a harpoon saw, is the type of tool widely used in home workshops. They are lightweight, easy to use, and extremely versatile. To some extent, the saw can perform the functions of a band saw, a circular saw, and even a circular saw. I used a mounting saw for all kinds of general applications, such as cutting drywall and roughing large pieces of plywood and timber before transferring them to a jigsaw tool. But mounting binoculars are exceptionally good at making more complex and intricate cuts. The traditional puzzle, with its intricate network of highly curved pieces, very well illustrates the maneuverability and detail that a narrow saw blade can do. A great saw for basic home repairs and advanced woodworking, the tool is used for cutting curves, holes, and scrolls for projects like cabinets, worktops, furniture, woodwork and more.

 Selection for Jigsaw

When shopping for a new jigsaw, focus on features that make everyday use easier and you will be satisfied with the saw for many future projects. When holding a chainsaw, is it light and balanced? Is it easy to see where the blade meets the wood? This is a critical area when making cuts and without clear visibility you will have difficulty achieving accuracy.

Blade alignment is another important feature. Some manufacturers offer disposable plastic guides to keep the blade aligned with the base. Other manufacturers offer rigid metal guides. In my experience, metal blades provide more reliable blade alignment.

Most conventional saw models have horizontal D-shaped handles. However, many modern styles have "locking cylinder" grips, which are palm-sized grips that attach directly at the saw's cutting point and are designed for better balance and control. The handle design is really a matter of personal preference. Many people like the barrel grip design, but many of them are used to the traditional style.

A welcome feature of many modern mounting saws is an easier blade change system. Blades, which were previously a complex process that required special tools, can now be changed using only disks or keys to release the blade for easy removal. Bosch offers a "one-touch" blade change system on some of its models which ejects hot or broken blades by pulling the lever.

Other useful features include variable speed control. In some saws, the blade speed, or the number of blade strokes per minute, can be adjusted by a variable speed actuator. A light touch of the trigger produces a slow cut-off action. Pressing more forcefully increases blade speed and cutting force.

In addition to speed control, some mounting saws provide an orbital cutting motion that controls the horizontal movement of the blade cutting motion. For example, on Freud's FJ85, the orbital selection switch, located in the rear left of the saw, provides vertical cutting action only when set to "0". By changing the setting to a position between 1 and 3, a horizontal movement is introduced into the vertical movement of the blade. This improves the speed of the cutting process. The higher the number setting, the greater the horizontal movement.

Making the cut

In some cases, the saw can be mounted on a stand and fixed upside down on a bench. This allows the material to enter the saw, just as it does when using a band saw. However, the most common method of use is to operate the saw as a hand tool and push it into the material.

The limitations of the clamp saw are the thickness of the cut and the difficulty of cutting in a straight line. The thickest material is usually about 1 1/2 inch thick for a photo saw. However, the problems of cutting a saw in a straight line with a saw can be greatly mitigated with a saw guide.

The First Rule of Post Usage:

 Safety First. Learn about your owner's manual and all safety recommendations specific to your chainsaw.

The second rule:

let the saw blade do the work. Manual pressure will not help cutting and forward overpressure will reduce blade life and reduce quality. To get basic puzzle pieces, follow these instructions:

Standard vertical cuts

 For vertical cuts, keep the base of the saw on the cutting surface. You may want to drill a pilot hole for the blade in a section of scrap material for parts that are not made from the edge of the material. Run the blade and slowly push the saw forward to penetrate the material.

Horizontal cuts (bench)

The cutting method is the same, but for horizontal cutting in plywood or other material, make sure the material is anchored to the workbench. Make sure the saw does not come into contact with the workbench or the power cord when making cuts.

Cut in a straight line

Use straight, narrow fences to create long, straight, straight, or slanted cuts. For greater precision in straight cutting, the wide saw blade is less likely to bend outward while cutting. Also, use a slower blade speed. Lower speeds generally allow for a more precise cut.

Bevel cuts

To make a bevel or bevel cut, rotate the surface by loosening the screw at the bottom of the saw. Many of today's mount binoculars offer an adjustable 45 degree angle of cut. Adjust the platform and then tighten the latch. Perform a test cut to measure angle accuracy before making actual production cuts.

Round or curved cuts

When cutting rounded corners, use a compass to determine the radius. Create exceptionally narrow curves by applying one or more straight, crisscross pieces. On complex curved shapes, you can follow the cut design and then define the direction and sequence of individual parts before you begin. Make sure the completely marked cutting area extends beyond the edge of the workbench.

Dip cutting

 Hold the saw with both hands and place the front end of the footrest firmly against the workpiece. With the blade positioned approximately 90 degrees from the work surface and ready to make a vertical (non-orbital) cut, turn the saw and slowly tilt the blade to a flat position, pierce the material. However, many users get stuck using pilot holes and find it difficult to achieve an accurate plunge cut.