The Bhagalpuri Saree: The Fabric of Eastern India

Posted by Charles Patrick on June 27th, 2022

The history of Mysore silk sarees reflects a fascinating tale of how a local business turned into one of the most recognizable fashion items worldwide. We look at what this means for the city and how it came to be. Historical records show that the Mysore region was known for its traditional silk sarees since around the 11th century. At that time, the textile trade flourished in the area because of its perfect climatic conditions for raising silkworms — where cocoons could be stored during winter and caterpillars could be released during summer — making it ideal for silk production. The tradition continued until around 1900 when demand for locally produced textiles declined due to colonial policies restricting Indian trade and foreign competition from British mills. It wasn't until after Indian independence that production once again thrived in Mysore.

From Tradition to Innovation: How Mysore Became A World-Famous Brand

For many years, Mysore Silk Sarees were exclusively produced in the Mysore area. Around 1910, the Maharaja of Mysor, Krishna Raja Wadiyar IV, invited a group of weavers from Coimbatore to show them the art of making silk sarees. The Coimbatore weavers soon established a silk weaving center in Mysor, thus marking the beginning of the industry's modern era. As a result, the Mysore silk saree soon became a household name, gaining popularity and demand worldwide. The Coimbatore weavers incorporated the same design patterns and motifs used by the Mysore weavers, but they added a few innovations.

Reclaiming Mysore’s Prestige

With the decline of the Mysore silk saree industry due to the British occupation and an influx of cheaper silk imports from other parts of India, the city lost its reputation as a prime manufacturer of high-quality textiles. The Wadiyar dynasty revived the silk industry, focusing on quality and design instead of high production. This helped the Mysore Royal Saree regain its prestige among the local public; today, it is as recognized as it ever was. The Wadiyars also brought international attention to the Mysore silk saree, promoting it as a cultural symbol of Southern India. The saree is still used in traditional ceremonies and wedding rituals among the Indian population, and Bollywood film stars also wear it.

Why Are Mysore Silk Sarees So Famous?

The Wadiyar dynasty ensured that high-quality silk was a crucial ingredient in every Mysore silk saree, as it helps the cloth retain its rich and vibrant colors even after years of being worn. This, combined with the wide variety of designs and motifs used in weaving, made the Mysore silk saree stand out among other silk sarees. The Wadiyars also maintained the traditional design, ensuring it did not stray from its roots. The Mysore silk saree is made using a blend of natural silk and cotton with a blend of 37-40% of each, depending on the quality of the fabric.

The Art of Weaving a Mysore Sari: What is Hand-Weaving?

Hand-weaving is the traditional method of producing sarees, in which the weaver holds the loom and manually inserts the warp and weft threads. This method is still used in Mysore and the surrounding areas. However, the traditional looms have been replaced by more efficient Jacquard looms, where weaving is done automatically with the help of a computerized loom. A single saree takes about one to three months to produce, depending on the design and intricacy of the weave. A weaver usually works eight hours per day, six days a week, with a break on Sundays. The silk is dyed using natural dyes and blended in various proportions to produce desired colors. The sarees are then washed, dried, and ironed before being sent to be sold.

The Master Craftsmen Behind the Mysore Saree

The weavers are the backbone of the silk weaving industry in Mysore. They work in small, family-run workshops, where they can focus on creating exquisite products. The weavers also have access to social security benefits and hospitalization, which the state provides. The Wadiyars ensured that these weavers were adequately compensated and provided a safe working environment. The entire process — from harvesting the cocoons to dyeing the silk and hand-weaving the saree — takes place locally in Mysore, making it a genuinely Indian product. As a result, Mysore silk sarees are some of the most expensive sarees in the world. A single saree can cost between ,000-,000, depending on the design and weave.

New Markets, New Styles

The traditional style of weaving has not changed much over the years, with the same design patterns being used in the production of Mysore silk sarees. Due to the product's popularity, the demand for Mysore silk sarees has increased, and different design and color combinations are now being used to cater to new customers and markets. These new products include scarves, shawls, and stoles, also made with the same quality as the sarees. The Mysore silk industry has also expanded to include new varieties of silk such as pongee, ikkat, tussar, and mulberry. The city has also seen an increase in the number of weavers and production. The government has put in place policies to promote the textile industry and protect the environment from pollution by using renewable energy sources.

Conclusion

The Mysore silk saree has come a long way from what was once a local tradition. Over the years, it has evolved to cater to new customers and markets while retaining its Indian identity. The Mysore silk industry has also evolved to produce new varieties of silk, such as pongee and tussar while promoting renewable energy sources. With its rich history and high-quality products, the Mysore silk saree will continue to thrive and be a cultural symbol of India and Southern Indian culture.