ORIS PROPILOT X CALIBER 400 LASER: A UNIQUE AND INNOVATIVE IRIDESCENT DIAL

Posted by lifata on November 28th, 2023

During the 2023 edition of Dubai Watch Week, Oris unveiled its latest creation: the ProPilot X Caliber 400 Laser. At first glance, you might think that the Hölstein manufacture is simply offering us a rainbow dial for its ProPilot X model released last year at Watches & Wonders. But that would be a poor understanding of the house founded in 1904...

The ProPilot with the mention “LIFT”, and finally a modern case with consistent dimensions of 39mm in diameter and 12mm thick. All in grade 2 titanium, 50% lighter than steel and resistant to corrosion. But this creation stands out from the crowd by showcasing processing techniques never before used in watchmaking. Indeed, the double laser treatment of the dial makes each piece unique and gives them this captivating iridescence. These treatments were carried out in partnership with the prestigious ETH Zurich university, which has no less than 20 Nobel Prize winners, including Albert Einstein if you please!

This laser technique creates micro-lines in titanium, which absorb red rays of light, thus reflecting other colors. We are talking about “reflection” here, because the dial is devoid of any color pigment. You read correctly, this pastel palette dancing on the dial is physically “colorless”. As the dial changes and evolves with the light, one can't help but think of the wings of a dragonfly, transparent at first glance, but at the right angles reflecting blue, green and purple rays . The same goes for soap bubbles. “Colorization is done by manipulating the surface so that light of a certain wavelength is destroyed and others are reflected. By playing with these parameters and adding the shimmer effect, we obtain the different colors. In the end, you have a rainbow on your wrist, depending on the viewing angle,” says Richard Siegrist, product development manager at Oris.

The elements present on the dial are all made by laser and engraved in titanium. Thus, the logo, the indexes and the railway also play with the angles and bring an effect of playful relief and depth to the entire replica watch. The movement is not to be outdone, because it is the famous caliber 400 developed by the Hölstein manufacture, offering an impressive power reserve of 120 hours (5 days) thanks to the combination of two barrels storing the energy. All of which can be observed through the bottom of the box. This caliber is protected from magnetic fields and displays an accuracy of -3/+5 seconds per day.