Let's learn to appreciate leather again

“ I like leather that has been processed while retaining its natural properties. The leather is then untouched, never level or straight. It carries the story of the animal, an insect bite, a scar or folds. Leather is extremely strong and is, therefore, a very durable material that will last a lifetime. I see with my customers that a beautiful, high-quality leather bag can be like a companion that is carried everywhere and you don't just throw it away. I think we should not forget those qualities of leather in the discussion about sustainability.

"A beautiful leather messenger bag can be like a companion that you take with you everywhere and not just throw away"

Everyone makes their own choices

During my education I learned about leather types and how to process leather. It was only then that I realized how unclear the leather industry really is. Just like with food, you should actually have a list of ingredients, so that you as a designer and buyer can make an informed choice when buying the skins and then share this knowledge with consumers.

And isn't it incredible that until the 1960s the Netherlands still had a thriving leather industry? In the following years, the sector has largely moved to Asia, where other environmental requirements apply and production is cheaper. As a result, most brands now have no idea where their leather comes from, how it is made, and in the meantime, consumers see horrible images of animal abuse in these countries - for leather's sake. This gives the material a bad image, while it is a natural material with sustainable qualities. I try to enter into a dialogue with people about this through lectures and workshops. I don't want to impose anything, but I want to tell people an honest story about learning. In the end, everyone makes their own choices.

The cow is in Germany

The leather that I use now is from Ecopell . They get the cows from the immediate surroundings and are located in Germany, the Bavarian Alps. Their living environment is rural and not industrial. The skins are a by-product of the meat industry - no animal is slaughtered just for the leather. The leather is certified and ecologically tanned, so without dangerous chrome that is harmful to humans (can be carcinogenic) and the environment. In short: it is possible to work with leather where you know where the cow has been and where the tanning process has taken account of people and the environment. You can also see that the leather industry in the Netherlands is slowly coming back, with initiatives such as Trace Your Leather, where the cow has been in Dutch pastures and is tanned in the Netherlands in the most environmentally friendly way possible.

It may all sound fairly easy, but finding ecologically tanned leather, of good quality and with a good price is difficult in practice. You need knowledge of the supply chain and the tanning process to be able to properly assess whether the supplier is really trying to work in the most sustainable way possible. I almost always go to the shed itself where the skins are. Seeing and continuing to ask questions works best - supplemented by background research. What I find strange is that even the traders often do not know what they are selling.

Beautiful leather is slow fashion

When people see the price of a Labor of Art bag, they sometimes have doubts. I understand that people have become accustomed to the prices charged by the chains. I always tell my story: that I myself purchase, design, make and pay attention to sustainability. Hearing the word 'sustainability', some people become extra critical. When I see that they are dressed in clothing from large fashion chains, I sometimes find that a shame. But luckily most people see the story as an added value. When they choose one of my designs, I always hope that they will take the bag on an adventure for years to come. I make every item with great care, so that it becomes a beautiful product of quality. But what is so beautiful about leather is that when it is used it only gets better."