Resin Epoxy table instruction
Posted by faessi1 on October 25th, 2019
Step 1: Remove the edge of the woodboard
Remove a forest edge that may not be desired using a suitable tool.
Step 2: Seal the edge of the forest
Forest or bark edges can be pre-impregnated and sealed with the epoxy resin SR Surf Clear EVO and hardener SD SC EVO MED. This avoids excessive resin absorption and prolonged outgassing of the wood; these materials can be applied with a brush. Both resin systems react quite quickly: it is best to apply them "wet-on-wet "* depending on the ambient temperature.
The material of the previously applied layer must still be visible on the glove finger with the "dabbing on top"; if this is not the case, let the resin mixture harden first and sand with grain P80 to 120 before the next resin application.
Step 3: Sealing the table ends
Resin River Table: Seal the table ends To prevent the casting resin from flowing away, the two head ends are sealed with adapted boundaries of wood, plastic, strong cardboard, etc..
These boundaries can be fitted and completely sealed with a flexible sealing compound, e.g. MS-Polymer UNICOL.
Head parts made of cardboard or wood should be covered with a self-separating PE foil (also parcel adhesive tape, cling film or similar) or treated with a separating agent on the surface so that the boundaries can be removed easily later without adhering to the resin mixture. If you don't take care of a separation carefully, the resin shows its excellent adhesive properties in a negative sense!
Step 4: Aligning the screeds
Align both halves of the screed evenly and evenly so that a uniform pouring height of the resin is guaranteed. The same applies to other geometrically different shapes and materials that are cast in. Irrespective of whether the table is round or rectangular to achieve a flat surface, it is necessary to align the casting objects horizontally and on all sides!
5. working step: filling of pebbles and moss in the middle area
In this example table, the volume to be filled, the river itself, was filled with white ornamental gravel and moss.
For light objects, which can be poured in at your own discretion, we recommend to fix them to the ground beforehand, as they will float up due to the heavier resin.
Important: All objects, which are poured in, must be absolutely dry; this applies particularly to organic objects as for example flowers, grasses or also - as used here - moss.
6 Working steps: Pour the resin/hardener mixture into the middle chamber in several steps of approx. 1-3 cm layer thickness.
Important: Mix resin and hardener exactly, mix well (use balance); work with preparations immediately; work wet in wet (still showing material on glove in glove test) otherwise sand after curing.
7 Pouring the resin/hardener mixture into the middle chamber; here: in several steps of approx. 1 cm layer thickness
Attention: The advantage of the "wet in wet" method is the fast working away of the layers one after the other.
It is not necessary to wait until the previous layer has hardened, on the contrary, the chemical bond is best with this method. Another advantage is that there are no grinding scratches between the layers, otherwise the surface would have to be ground.
Step 8: Surface preparation Finish
The curing of the material can take several hours or even 1 to 7 days, depending on the environmental conditions and the amount poured! Recommendation: a controlled subsequent heating ("tempering") increases the chemical and thermal stability. Finally, the surface is prepared according to the desired final appearance.
If the wooden parts remain natural, as in this case, sanding with grain P180 is sufficient as preparation. The middle part with the "Epoxy River" is already more complex. Depending on the degree of gloss to be achieved, processing starts with 180/240/360/400/400/600/800 grit. From 1000-4000 grit, wet grinding is also possible.
If required, the finishing touches can be made:
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