Ethnic Jewellery

Posted by Juliana Morgan on December 4th, 2019

Ethnic jewellery is a style that is attributed to many countries like African, Native American and Bohemian. It has a distinctive and unique look Moroccan, Persian, Afghani and Yemeni are some of its kinds. It usually highlights some natural stones like turquoise, amber or agate. They may also have intricate beadwork with the use of sterling and other malleable and natural material.

They comprise of all types of jewellery. Necklaces, Earrings, rings, stickpins and hatpins, Bracelets and Bangles, Pendants and Lockets. Wedding crowns can be an ethnic one or even a purse.

The materials comprise of coral and jade, gemstones, glass jewellery of Europe and Japan, Ivory and Bone jewellery, various metals, Jadeite Carvings, and vintage silver jewellery.

Some example are –

• Tibetan carved bone ornament with turquoise, coral, yak bone and silver bead necklace.
• Naga tribal cobalt blue glass bead multilayered necklace.
• Rajasthan sterling silver amulet bracelet.
• Sterling silver Ganesha deity ring.
• Islamic Central Asian tribal silver amulet and talisman chain necklace.
• Native American beaded Thunderbird pendant necklace

Right from the Mohenjo-Daro – Harappa civilization and the Indus valley civilization, jewellery had been a part and parcel of one's life. The seals stand testimony for this. We have seen the seal of a lady with her hands full of bangles. Before the metal age, both men and women wore jewelleries made of shells, wood or even bamboos. Later on, gold and silver jewellery was much into the dress code of the people.

Some types of ethnic Indian jewellery are –

• Kundan – It is the purest form of gold and is the most expensive. It started during the Mughal period in Delhi and gradually got developed in Rajasthan. Precious and semi-precious stones and gems are patterned in gold.

• Meenakari – This is another ethnic jewellery of Rajasthan which is bright and colorful. Precious stones are set on gold or silver before enameling them with colors like red, yellow, blue, white, green and black. They usually have motifs of peacocks, flowers, fish or paisley.
• Lac – For their versatility lac accessories has received appreciation all over the world. This auspicious ornament is enhanced with glass beads, flower-shaped mirrors and decorative wires.
• Pachchikam is ethnic jewellery which originated in Gujarat and Kutch centuries ago. Uncut semiprecious stones and delicate glasswork are embedded on a silver base instead of gold. This makes it more affordable yet attractive.
• Gold and silver jewellery is very common.

Some precious and semiprecious stones used in ethnic ornaments are –

• Amber – an organic gemstone of tree resin hardened over time. This must be at least one million years old.
• Amethyst belongs to the quartz family. The purple colour is its greatest treasure and the tone can range from light to dark.
• Emerald is known for its fine green or bluish-green colour. Egyptians mined them as early as 3500 BC.
• Jade referred to as the stone of heaven is usually green in colour and can come in some other colours as well.
• Jesper comes in a variety of colours. It has a unique and interesting pattern within the coloured stone.
• Quartz is a crystalline gemstone. Rose, Amethyst, and Citrine are its types.
• Ruby – the king of precious stones is known for its intense red colour.
• Sapphire is known for its blue colour and is a very popular gemstone.
• Turquoise is prized for its attractive colour of intense medium blue or greenish-blue.

Ethnic jewellery was not only an adornment, but each stone was endowed with a mystical quality and used to protect against evil forces. The navaratna is working in a particular order for the same reason, even today. Each stone is sacred to a planet.

• The maniratna , or the serpent stone, was used as a talisman to protect the person who is wearing it.
• Rudraksha, tulsi seeds and sandalwood beads are considered to be sacred even today during Hindu worship.
• Minakari or enamel work was found in ancient Taxila, this art reached its zenith only under the Moghuls. The zenith of ornamentation, elegant, exquisite and extravagance was seen using this type of jewellery.

Later on, a bride was bedecked with ornaments is it provided financial security to be sold at the time of need.

Some of the ethnic Indian jewellery include –

• Sarpech – Traditional Rajasthan headgear made up of uncut diamonds and elongated emerald drops. It is topped by a paisley crest. Jaipur enamel work covers the reverse of the ornament. A similar headgear is seen in the Ajanta paintings.
• Keda or Bracelet can be hollow, solid or filled with lac. The ends had different designs such as two parrots, twin elephants, etc. Stone set kedas can have enamel on one side.
• Vanki or Armlet is laid with diamonds, rubies, and emeralds. The shape is such that it fits over the arm without any pressure.
• Oddiyanam or the waist ornament was used to hold up the saree. It served the purpose of keeping the waist slim. An ethnic one way has diamonds, emeralds, and rubies. Designs of peacocks, flower buds and leaves intermingle and form a beautiful design.
• Linga Padakka Muthu Malai is a garland of pearls with Lingam pendant. It was believed that flower pearls prevented misfortune and were usually worn by the kings. Pendants even had family deity engraved in gold.
• Jadanagam – Hair ornament was usually worn by the temple dancers wear it even today.
• The Shinka is an unusual hair ornament originating in Gujrat. It is a heavy ornament and put on the hair itself. It contains gold hooks which are attached to the hair to keep the ornament at its place.
• Hathphool is a hand ornament originates from Rajasthan. It has a Kundan set flowing bracelet with chains leading to another flower on the back of the palm and then there are five chains connected to the five rings to be worn on each finger.
• Last but not the least the Paizels foot ornament adorns the feet. It can be made of gold or silver.